The Rolex Explorer II, a watch synonymous with adventure and exploration, holds a special place in the hearts of collectors. Within the already highly sought-after lineage of Explorer II models, a specific subset commands even greater attention and desirability: the Rolex Explorer II with the distinctive "Rail Dial." This article will explore the allure of the Rail Dial, its history, its variations across reference numbers 1655 and 16550, and its significance in the world of vintage Rolex collecting. We'll also touch upon relevant modern Explorer II models for comparison, including details on size, color options, and pricing.
The Rolex Rail Dial: A Mark of Distinction
Rolex Rail Dials are found on select vintage Explorer II reference 1655 and 16550 models. The name "Rail Dial" derives from the unique design of the hour markers. Instead of the typical baton or triangular hour markers found on many Rolex watches, the Rail Dial features rectangular markers with noticeably thicker, bolder lines, resembling railway tracks – hence the moniker. These "rails" are meticulously applied, creating a distinctive and highly sought-after aesthetic. The effect is one of increased legibility, particularly in low-light conditions, a crucial feature for a watch designed for exploration and adventure.
The most famous and collectible Rail Dials are undoubtedly those found on the reference 1655, produced from 1971 to 1984. These early examples often exhibit a certain charm and patina that comes with age, adding to their desirability amongst collectors. The 16550, produced from 1984 to 1989, also features Rail Dials, but subtle differences in the dial's printing and lume plots distinguish them from their predecessors. These differences, often minute to the untrained eye, are crucial factors determining a watch's value and authenticity within the collector's market. The subtle variations in lume aging, the font used for the numerals and text, and even the minute imperfections in the printing process contribute to the unique character of each individual Rail Dial.
Exploring the Reference Numbers: 1655 vs. 16550
The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, often referred to as the "Steve McQueen" Explorer II due to its association with the iconic actor (though there's no definitive proof he owned one), is the most legendary of the Rail Dial models. Its larger 40mm case, compared to later models, gives it a more substantial presence on the wrist. The 1655 often features a gilt (gold) dial, further enhancing its vintage appeal. The lume, typically tritium, has aged over time, resulting in a characteristic creamy or yellowish hue, a characteristic highly valued by collectors. Finding an original 1655 in excellent condition with its original dial and hands is a rare and rewarding experience.
The reference 16550, while still featuring the Rail Dial, represents a transitional period in Rolex's Explorer II production. Launched in 1984, it marked a shift towards a more modern aesthetic. While retaining the distinctive Rail Dial, the 16550 features a slightly smaller case (still 40mm), a different crystal, and a change in the movement. The lume on the 16550 is usually tritium, but it ages differently than the lume on the 1655, resulting in a distinct visual difference. While not as highly sought-after as the 1655, the 16550 remains a highly collectible and desirable watch in its own right.
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